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I'm Harold on co-founder of Whitehall growing and sale and designer of the White House Spirit solo 14. The solar 14 is a slide seat rowboat incorporating a Whitehall style. Ho today. I've got Adam Creek four-time world champion winner of six gold medals and lately winner of another gold of the 2008 Olympic been in the men's rowing eight. Adam is also a rolling instructor several years and is both the source the finer points of rolling a slide zero load. Before we go into the details. I'm going to introduce some of the equipment we use in the boat easy. The boat is equipped with an outrigger. It has a has an oar lock right here that swivels and the Warlock that comes a door.
About has been a 4 degree pitch. If you want to adjust the pitch, he can buy a warlock from another manufacturer like concept to and it's easily fit Avalon these on the pins here. Can also see we have a sliding seat the seat moves back and forth so that you can use the biggest muscle groups in your body. That's your that's your legs. You'll also see here. This is where your feet go and when you're moving the boat along and you're putting power on to the blades. The biggest force on the boat comes on the foot stops here. And of course, we've got the oars and see right here. We have a carbon fiber or the it's made of carbon fiber because it's light and strong just like an F1 racing card can also see there's a hatchet blade. Some blades are make on And how even spacing on other side either side of the of the shaft but a hatchet has a has a has a larger area below the shaft to give you a bit more mechanical advantage these became popular but 15 or 20 years ago when materials engineering move to the point where you could actually make stronger blades. As we look closer at the blade you can see that there's a Different shapes part As you move up the circular shaft. This is called the caller. If you look closely at the collar, you can see that there's a very flat part and this is very integral when you're Feathering and squaring the blade also see that there are two other semi flat parts and a rounded side to the caller.
Put the blade in the or lock you're going to use the smaller end of the shaft. You going to insert the small end into the or lock like so.
When you're sitting in a rowboat, you're going backwards. So starboard will be on your left and Port will be on your right. You can see starboard. The standard color for starboard is green.
There are two positions that a blade goes in. One is on the Square and one is on the feather on the blade is on the Square. That's the way the blade looks when you're taking a stroke when a blade is on the feather. That's the way the blade looks when your blade is out of the water when you're on the recovery.
When you blade is on the Square the flat part of the or presses up against the PIN.
When your blade is on the feather the flat part of the or rests on the base of the orlock. Because you have these flat Parts. It makes it very easy to to tell just by feel whether or not your blade is completely squared or completely feathered if your
If you try to put your blade in the water and that's half squared or half feathered the blade is going to dig and you're going to catch what we commonly refer to as a crab. You want to make sure that the caller on the starboard or which is green. I want to make sure that the caller is pushed firmly up against the or lock at all times during the rowing stroke this again ensures that you don't catch any unwanted crabs in the boat.
When you're putting your blade into the or lock you need to pay special attention to which direction the or lock faces.
It's a common mistake when first getting into the boat to have the orlock facing to Bow. However, you need to make sure that the orlock points astern. If you can't point the or lock to Bow, you're going to have a funny pitch on your blade and your blades are going to dig really deep and it's going to be very uncomfortable to row on top of that.
Your Locs not designed to To resist the force that you put on the plastic end. There's a metal pin that needs to resist the force when the or lock is facing a Stern.
So again to review place the orlock. Astern get the narrow end of the shaft place it in push the or all the way down. So that the The caller rest in the or lock and the button is pushed firmly against the orlock.
Because we look at the caller we can see that we have a button and the button presses right up against the or lock and you can adjust where the button lies on the collar you can use a screwdriver. This one has a Phillips or cross-shaped screw in it and you just unscrew it and there's a little notches that the that the caller slides into so you move it. You can either move it close towards the handle or close towards the blade. If the button is close to the handle, you're going to have a heavier load on the blade if the button is closer to the to the blade you're going to have a lighter load when you when you pull on your or this is this is basically just changing your leverage Point what also will happen is as well as changing the amount of load you get you also change the amount of crossover you experienced in your hands. And as you have As you move your your call or closer to the blade you'll have more crossover and it'll make your your movements a bit more more difficult because you'll have a chance of nicking your hands on your on your knuckles for Less experienced rowers, they may find that having a Having the caller closer to Having the button closer to the handle the might find that a bit more freeing because they don't have to worry about their hands Nikki each other. However, more experienced rowers were used to rowing in a wrong shell and used to the crossover. They may enjoy having their their button. Closer to the blade than fact I have another or here and in fact, this is this is how I normally set up my blade just because I like to have more speed of the blade through the water. In fact, it doesn't really affect the amount of calories that you burn where it is. I just find that the loading feels better on my on my low back if I if I move the if I move the button closer.
Where's the blade when holding the or handle you want to hold it like this? Make sure your thumb is placed over the tip of the end and you're exerting a firm constant pressure into the or lock. You also want to keep the or handle in the pads of your hand and your finger when you're taking your stroke. You will grip the or like this. You don't want to grip your like this with your hand turned over or Grip the or like that with your wrist turned under? Too much of rubbing will cause repetitive stress in your forearm and can lead to tendonitis.
When you draw the handle in you want to make sure that the pressure exists in the hook of your fingers almost like a meat hook.
You also want to make sure that you have a straight line from your knuckles to your forearm. Draw the or in slightly drop your wrist when you feather and then quickly returned. What happened to that straight line? As you're going up to recover you should be able to wiggle your fingers and feel the weight of the blade in your fingers and your the handle will move slightly from your fingers into the front of your palm as U square and get ready to take the next stroke.
Here we have the foot. Stop the puts up takes the brunt of all the power that you put onto the boat. We strapped in with velcro straps. You can just wear your ordinary running shoes to makes it really easy for getting in and out of the boat. You can also adjust the bottom.
Of the footplate you can unscrew the screws and move it up or down. So if you have a smaller shoe, for example, you can move the plate up and be able to fit in. Here we have the sliding seat. It has a bit of a funny shape. We see two holes here for a Sit bones cut out for a coccyx. You want to make sure that the flat part is always facing the flat part of the boat astern.
The sliding seat comes off the tracks fairly easily. You can see their little hooks here that hook into the tracks.
The wheels have varies built into them to protect from the salt water.
Getting into a Whitehall boat. You want to keep your center of gravity as low as possible. You want to keep your butt as close to the dock and as close to the seat as possible before getting in make sure the seat is moved all the way to the bow so that you'll be in the right position where you put your feet in the boat. You want to get your weight in the middle of the boat or along the Keel of the boat. Quickly as possible. If you have short legs, you can step on the side of the boat and then move into the middle of the boat, but because I have longer legs. I'm going to step directly into the center of the boat.
Entering a boat in this way minimizes your chance of capsizing. However, because you are in such a wide hog boat. It's very very difficult to flip after getting into the boat. We're going to need to adjust your foot structures. Mine are adjusted from the last time I was rowing. But if my legs were longer I'd have to move the foot stretchers away from me. If my legs are shorter. I'd have to move the foot stretcher towards me as you can see we have Wing nuts that make the job pretty easy and there's only two of them.
After adjusting the foot stops I will grow in my feet.
If this was the first time I was rowing I'd give a rough estimation of where to put my feet and then check once I've pushed off the dock with where my handles touch my body.
To fine-tune your foot stretchers. Once you've gotten into the boat, pull your handles towards your chest. If you have lots of room between the ends of your Handles in your chest, you may need to move your foot structures to the stern. That's away from you. If you don't have very much room between your handles and your chest, if you can't move your handles past your rib cage, you're going to need to move the foot stretchers to the bow or towards you.
I need to move my foot structures to the stern.
Rowing stroke is broken up into many different parts. We've got the catch the drive the finish and the recovery. The catch is also called front stops. And that's right before and as you put the blade in the water the drive is as you're moving the blade through the water and the Finish is when you're at back stops or the back. The slide right before you take the blade out of the water. The recovery is the part of the stroke where you tap the blades down feather them and bring them forward up to the catch to take one more stroke.
There's three ways to turn a rowing boat. I'll start with the simplest simplest is just to pull harder.
With one of your arse here. I'm pulling hard with my starboard or and I'm turning to Port.
Pulling with my left hand. I'm turning to the right. Deter a smaller radius you can hold water with the or On the side towards which you are turning for example, I want to turn to port or to the right. So I'm going to hold with my port or will I take Strokes with my starboard or or my left hand To turn your length or with the smallest radius you can take a normal stroke with one or and take it backing stroke with the other or
You can see my poor or is over squared as I'm pushing it as I'm pushing the water.
It's the way I find to back a boat is 2 over Square your blade. So have a face the opposite way. It should while you're taking a normal stroke.
Place the blaze in the water and push away from you like you're doing a push-up or mini bench press.
The boat can move comfortably in this direction, although it's not designed to
The best way I've found to stop a boat is to dig your blade in the water slightly over feathered Take the blade in like this and then straighten your arm as soon as your arm is straight and you can gradually over Square the blade so the boat can make a complete stop this works really well and the boat will stop within under a boat length
Now we're back out on the water and we can get into more of the intricate parts of the rowing stroke I'm gonna talk about what the hands do first because that's the most dexterous part It's usually the hardest thing for people to get their their minds wrapped around again you want the thumbs on the ends of the handles giving constant pressure out to the oarlocks North America We Care
Hand over the right after we tap down
You can be with you can be a little bit quicker With your left hand around the finish and lag a bit behind with your right hand After you've gone past the center of the stroke with your hands Your right hand will have to move a little bit quicker.
To catch up with the advantage that you left hand has his your left hand will be a little bit in front of your right hand the biggest muscle group that you use. All your rowing is your legs.
You should feel your legs as soon as you put your blades in the water and you should feel firm pressure on your foot stops.
Until after you've taken your blades out of the water at the finish when you get up to the catch, make sure you're catching with your shoulders not with your back.
I often see people take. Touch of the stroke like this. This is the wrong way to rope you want to take the caps with your body angle held and feel a firm pressure on your legs.
And keep your blades driving straight through the water to turn a little bit. I need to turn to starboard. What I'm doing is I'm pulling a little bit harder with my poor or I'm almost just placing my left or for my starboard Oar in the water without putting any pressure on it. This allows me to get a new line. That I can then follow. Right now it's a little bit windy out and above. My boat is gently being pushed to Port so have to pull a little bit harder with my port or to keep the boat going straight after you pick up the catch with your legs holding your body angle firm. Who won start to engage your back into the stroke?
You finish up the power in the stroke with the arms.
Topping them out smoothly at the Finish. You want your power to increase accordingly as you add your back to your legs and your arms legs back arms legs back arms legs back arms. I like to make sure all three of my legs backs and arms are finishing together. This make sure maximum power is placed at the finish at the point in the stroke when the boat is traveling the fastest. A good drill for you to try Make sure that you're not using too much of your upper body. You're keeping your focus on your legs this to sit up tall and to cut out your back and your arms like so after you've taken a few Strokes with just your legs add the second portion of the stroke your back. Like so your arms will break slightly, but that's okay.
Finish it off add in the arms making sure your legs back and arms finish all together.
Recoveries the next most important part of the stroke If you recover poorly not only will you make yourself more tired.
You also lose a lot of valuable speed that you worked so hard to put on the hull of the boat.
Way, I like to look at a good recovery starts with the slide.
I like to take time on the slide when my hands are over my toes. I call that time over the toes again, we have to bring the focus back to the hands which are car a lot of dexterity need to move the hands quickly around the finish and set the body angle early.
Go to feel a slight tugging your hamstrings before your knees break. This ensures that your body won't lunge at the catch and ensures that your blades won't Sky too high into the air when you're first learning how to row.
Feathering and squaring the blades
Might feel extremely awkward. That's okay. There's a lot of your body parts movie at exact same time.
Square your blades
And the Whitehall will set up perfectly for Whitehall the creates an incredibly stable platform for this drill in a racing Hall. This drill would take years to practice and a Whitehall child. Can Master this in one afternoon?
As we're on the square. We will then find the perfect height to carry our blades and to carry our hands.
Look at out your or
And make sure that it's only one inch above the water. When you decide to feather keep the blade at the same height, this will avoid skying the blade.
Which then causes the blade to dig and allows you to lock onto a firm post. For an excellent finish
For the beginner It's easier to think about the rowing stroke and three separate pieces your legs your back and your arms.
Can you pick up the water at the catch with your legs? You can add your back and then add your arms. Legs back arms I'm saying their names when I engage them legs back arms legs back arms on the recovery. You want to come up the slide in the opposite way first get your hands out past your knees set your body forward then comes the slide arms back legs.
Legs back arms arms back legs. It's important that you give your hands past your knees before they arise. Otherwise, the blades will ride on the water and Sky into the air here blades will then dig deep and your stroke will not be nearly as effective. Efficient you want to catch And keep your blades level like this almost 410 that their leaves on the top of the water and you're brushing the long.
To check where I'm going the best way to look over my shoulder is a take a quick glance. Or my blades are still in the water at the end of the stroke. This ensures stability in a skinny her Hull. However in a Whitehall boat I can look at any point in the stroke because the it is so stable
I select a point behind me Off about tip of the bow of the boat
I then quickly look a Stern and find a point on the horizon that I can focus on Once I focus on that point in the horizon.
I keep the Boat Moving in a straight line away from it.
Right. Now as I Roll Along, I'm looking at a little white boat house. You look up along the horizon. There's a tall skinny tree if I pull harder with my port or my right or I moved to starboard and my Stern moves to the right, correct by pulling harder on my left or her my starboard or and realign
To the point of pick on the horizon every 10 or 20 Strokes. I'll take a quick glance over one of my shoulders to make sure I'm still moving in the same direction. And then refocus on that point in the Horizon that I had before. Or readjust the point as I see fit. I'll look at trees buildings plants rocks, whatever is available to look at.
I brought with me my gold medal.
It's pretty beautiful to look at and still gives me chills when I bring it out. And in fact, this only came after 12 hard long years of work in my sport.
Having spent so much time in a racing shell. I found it a relief to pop into a into a recreational shell that I could do anything in. In fact, I could take this out in any weather go in want to have to 2 meter swells and load it up with crab traps and and have a great time. I love exploring in it and seeing new places. I couldn't otherwise go. I think that this boat
Is a great recreational shell because of its stability people can go out with relatively no or even no experience and have a great time and even find a way to get a good workout in I'd recommend this about to expert and novice alike.
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